This recipe started with leftover sheep’s ricotta from a course. Throwing good ingredients away goes against every instinct I have, so I thought of gnudi with leeks — one of those combinations that just works.
The problem is gnudi are unforgiving. The ratios need to be precise, and working with ingredients that aren’t exactly measured is a gamble I wasn’t willing to take. So I kept the same mixture, shaped it with two spoons, and put it in the oven instead. What came out surprised me — matte outside, soft inside, holding together perfectly. The oven turned out to be the better idea all along.
Ingredients (approx. 18 quenelles)
For the quenelles
- 320 g sheep’s ricotta
- 200 g cooked and well-drained leeks
- 60 g grated Parmesan
- 1 small egg
- 55–70 g fine breadcrumbs
- white pepper to taste (optional)
- salt to taste — only after tasting
To finish
- 60–80 g butter
- grated Parmesan to taste
- chives
- fresh sage leaves
Method
1. Prepare the leeks Remove the tougher dark green tops and slice the leeks thinly. Cook over very low heat with a little oil for 15–20 minutes — you want them very soft, almost creamy. Drain thoroughly in a colander and let them cool completely.
2. Make the mixture Put the well-drained ricotta, cooled leeks, Parmesan and egg in a bowl. Mix gently with a fork, adding breadcrumbs a little at a time. You’re looking for a mixture that is soft but holds its shape — it should sit on a spoon without spreading. Taste before adding any salt.
3. Shape and rest Using two spoons, shape the mixture into rustic oval quenelles. Place them on a lightly oiled baking tray or greased parchment paper, then refrigerate for about 2 hours.
4. Bake Cook in a conventional (static) oven at 190°C on the middle shelf for about 20 minutes. The surface should go matte; the inside stays soft.
5. Finish and serve While the quenelles bake, make a light brown butter: melt the butter over medium heat until it turns a pale hazelnut colour and smells nutty. Fry the sage leaves quickly in a little oil. Serve the quenelles hot with the brown butter, a little grated Parmesan, chives and fried sage.
